On both legs of our roadtrip we crashed at my friend Mike's newly remodeled
Casita Colores just off of Hwy 90 across from Alice's Cafe. The casita has a charming front and back porch, all new fully stocked kitchen, and bathroom with accents of seaglass. He'll even let you use any of the fresh produce in the garden! I spied peppers, tomatoes, chard, basil, sage, parsley, and arugula. The living room has a bookshelf of all kinds of old books for your intellectual pleasure and the 3 DVDs in the bedroom consist of a Frank Gehry documentary, Slumdog Millionaire, and Charlie Wilson's War- much better than any free movie selection at a hotel! The overall decor of the casita has a retro 50s industrial tone with colorful Tex Mex elements.
We awoke late, late, late due to our 4am arrival, but Lisa Copeland of
Austin Street Cafe let us come in for some eggs and waffles just as she was putting up the closed sign. Austin Street Cafe, a restored 1885 adobe originally owned by Donald Judd, is now the private home of Jack and Lisa Copeland who only open their doors Sundays from 8am-2pm for breakfast. You know when you walk into a place and from the moment you enter the door, you just know it's gonna be good?
Yeah, this is that kind of place. The waffles are made on a home cast iron press with Pam and filled with blueberries and are perhaps the best I've ever had.
They keep it interesting with a carrot, apple, sunflower seed muffins and a hard-boiled egg "done right" seasoned to perfection with a billowing side of prosciutto and ciabatta, cornichons, whole grain mustard or apricot preserve depending on if you're feeling sweet or sour on this fine morning.
On our return leg we were invited by some friends at
The Art of Elysium (a non-profit bringing art to ill children) to the home of
Ballroom Marfa (a non-traditional art gallery/event space featuring established and emerging artists from all over) co-founder, Fairfax Dorn, for a night of celebration.
Food Shark, Marfa's premier caterer, impressed with traditional Mexican fare: creamed nopales, habanero salsa, chunky guacamole, banana leaf tamales, chicken mole, and carnitas. The fire-haired and smashingly dressed
Alicia Witt performed several post-dinner songs as we slowly sipped the remnants of red wine and nibbled on chocolate brownie bites light as air and jalapeno coconut macaroons.
The chilly Marfa morning brought a warm breakfast at Cochineal, run by Tom and Toshi former owners of Etats Unis on the Upper East Side in Manhattan. Yet another artist seeking life off the grid.
I looked no further on the menu after spotting the sour cream pancakes and of course, a side of bacon. (I ate all my food before I realized I forgot to snap a shot-oops!) Sam ordered the moist and flavorful huevos rancheros, but sadly the migas were a touch dry and less flavorful than I'd liked. The menu is a French-based Mexican Asian hybrid without being all over the place- quite a feat to tackle. I'm anxious to return for dinner.
After breakfast, our new buddy, Todd from
Second Floor Gallery, showed us his sublime space currently featuring works from
Alex Weinstein.
Mediums range from oil on canvas and oil on paper to a combination of bondo, fiberglass, and resin.
All works have an aquatic theme as the artist is also an avid surfer. The gallery isn't large, but it's extremely peaceful and the small space lends to showing selective high quality pieces. There are quite a few fabulous art galleries in Marfa so be sure to consult the calendar before you roll through. If nothing else, do not leave Marfa without visiting the
Chinati Foundation, a huge indoor/outdoor art museum permanently displaying mostly installation works of Donal Judd and Dan Flavin.
